The cheapo gray knobs on the Rokinon (right) sucked - a lot - in real world use The Rokion (right) has a slightly larger lens bulge which made it more prone to lens flare,Īnd it doesn't come with a lens hood like the CanonĬanon (left) has an advantage of bigger knobs that lock down better This made it very difficult to get this lens on at night without a flashlight. It also drove me insane that it lacks a red dot on the top of the lens (instead it’s on the silver edge of the mount). I hated the controls on the Rokinon quite a bit because they were tiny, hard to grip, very cheap feeling, and overly tight to rotate – yet the lens slipped out of position easier. On the lens instead of through the camera The Rokinon (right) lacks contact points, so the aperture must be set The Rokinon may have a red ring, but it’s no pro lens by any stretch of the imagination! It has more substance and quality feel than a typical Canon EF-S lens, but the devil is in the details. Physically you can tell where the money difference goes, but surprisingly the Rokinon didn’t feel like a cheap lens. See the bookshelf example below for a demo where one adjustment fixes all the problems. To avoid these types of problems you should stay on the same plane as your subject when making your correction, and try to have all of your subjects on the same plane a well (if possible). Left tree corrected, but art object is now worseĪrt object corrected, but trees are worse than the original If we shift and recompose we can fix the tree on the left to make it nice and straight as shown here: We are used to looking at images like this so at first things seem okay. Here’s another example of that challenge as I take a shot of multiple objects that are on a slope (and the art object is actually not straight in real life which creates more challenges):Ĭanon EOS 5D Mark III, f/10 w/ Rokinon 24mm, 1/8, ISO 100, No Flash I can correct the trees or the building, but not both unless I get myself higher up where everything is level on the same plane (instead of the angle that I am now). The building in the background is still off a bit due to my angle which is one of the challenges of being at this level. Here’s a tough real world environment where distortion reigns supreme:Ĭanon EOS 5D Mark III, f/10 w/ Canon TS-E 24 mm, 1/25, ISO 100, No Flashīy doing a simple upward shift and re-composing the camera I can correct the distortion of the trees that are currently leaning inward:įoreground corrected with an upward shift and recompose (Canon) Using a Tilt Shift for Perspective Control The difference in framing was probably due to me bumping the tripod a bit, but both seemed to perform great in my opinion. This is pretty much how these quick snapshots came out of the camera with the only variable was the lens swap. It was raining when these shots were taken and I was holding an umbrella to protect the lenses, so I didn’t bother to do a shift to correct the perspective. Both offered super sharp results with no adjustments at all:Ĭanon EOS 5D Mark III, f/8 w/ Canon TS-E 24 mm, 3.2s, ISO 100, No FlashĬanon EOS 5D Mark III, f/8 w/ Rokinon TS-24mm, 3.2s, ISO 100, No Flash While the tilt and shift features will prove handy, you can also really enjoy them as just a regular 24mm lens. These are two really sharp and nice lenses. Rokinon Tilt-Shift 24mm f/3.5 ED AS UMC Lens for Canon ($999 USD)Ĭanon TS-E 24mm f/3.5L II Tilt-Shift Manual Focus Lens ($2,199 USD) Using a Tilt Shift as a Regular Lens Would the Rokinon equivalent lens really be in the same league when it cost $1000 USD less (at the time of this writing with Canon rebate)? I’ve been hearing good things about the image quality of Rokinon lenses lately, so I thought I’d give one a try using tilt-shift lenses ( defined) since those are so expensive from Canon that they are cost prohibitive to most of my readers (myself included).
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